For Chesapeake boaters Aubrey and Terri Smoot, there was a time when a cruise to Tangier Island felt like a big trip, but after traveling 8239 miles on the Great Loop, a run to Tangier seems like going around the corner. The couple recently spent a year, with their good dog, Yudee, circumnavigating the Loop aboard their Aspen powercat Shorebilly Too. They arrived home to the Southern Bay in April. Here they share in their own words some highlights of the trip and tips for those considering the Loop.
Planting the seed of adventure
Terri: One night over docktails in 2008 a family friend mentioned a route that could take a boater around the eastern half of North America. That planted the seed of adventure. As we headed towards retirement, the question was, “what would we do with all that time?” With the Great Loop growing larger and larger in Aubrey’s mind, the answer was obvious.
A boat for the Loop and beyond
Aubrey: Our Loop boat, the Shorebilly Too, is a 37.5-foot, 22-inch-draft Aspen C-108 powercatamaran, very different from the typical Loop boat. We wanted a boat that would endure past our Great Loop trip and handle the choppy conditions of our home cruising grounds of the Southern Chesapeake. Aspen is characterized by its asymmetric hull design, which allows us to travel at 20-plus mph in three-foot seas and still drink coffee. In two-foot seas you don’t even notice the conditions.
Shorebilly’s speed, efficiency, and capability meant we were able to do a bigger Loop than many. We took many side trips and saw some spectacular sights. For instance, traveling from Quebec City to Montreal against the eight-plus-mph current of the St. Lawrence wasn’t an issue because we had the power and speed to overcome the challenge. Cutting across Lake Michigan only took a few hours, and when we cut back, we caught right back up to the rest of the fleet. Jumping out to the Bahamas in less than desirable conditions was an option given no other window was forecast for at least 10 days.
One of the best features of the Aspen C-108 is that it is trailerable, so we can tow it back to areas of the Loop we wish to revisit. It’s the perfect size for cruising, docking, managing locks, and pleasure cruising.
Rethinking the wonders of the world
Terri: In New York, we headed up the Hudson River all the way to Lake Champlain, and from there we took the Richelieu River to the mighty Saint Lawrence River. Instead of heading west to Montreal, we headed northeast to Quebec City. Wow!
Aubrey: Next, we turned the Shorebilly Too around and fought the St. Lawrence all the way back to Montreal. Double wow!! We hopped over to Ottawa and the beautiful Rideau Canal, which snakes through the Canadian waterways to Kingston, ON. This allowed us to play in the Thousand Islands and Clayton, NY.
We ducked back deep into Lake Ontario to a little-known location called Main Duck Island. This was a whole other level of pretty! We shot up to enter the Trent-Severn Waterway, and the world kept getting prettier. When we entered the Georgian Bay, the beauty kept increasing. We transitioned to the North Channel of Lake Huron—even prettier.
Terri: We loved anchoring out in remote areas with lots of opportunities for hiking, fishing, and rafting with Looper friends. As pretty as the scenery is, the people you meet might be the number one attraction. It’s the ultimate cohort of like-minded people, all with a sense of adventure, all experiencing something new; all going in the same direction.
Leaving the amazing beauty of Canada behind us was actually depressing until we hit Mackinac Island—and a trip we thought couldn’t get any better did. The island and the trip down Lake Michigan make you rethink the wonders of the world. We zig-zagged across Lake Michigan allowing us to explore both the east and west sides. The northeast side of the lake has towns that can’t be missed. Door County, on the northwest side in Wisconsin, was equally stunning. Shooting back to the southeast side of the lake yielded fun places like Luddington, Pentwater, Saugatuck, and St. Joseph before heading back across to Chicago.
Industrial rivers to white sand beaches
Aubrey: Due to lock maintenance by the Army Corps of Engineers, we got held up for several weeks waiting for the locks south of Chicago to open. America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association’s (AGLCA) executive director, Kim Russo, who was there for us whenever there was a challenge, worked diligently to organize the backed-up Loopers into 20-plus flotillas and negotiate with the Corps to schedule pleasure craft locking.
Eventually we reached the Northern Mississippi River and at the Ohio River made a short jaunt north to Kentucky Lake which gave us access to the Tennessee River, where we detoured to Chattanooga allowing us to see the fall foliage reflect off the pristine waters (and the Chattanooga Choo-Choo). The industrial American inland rivers were impressive and travelling on them was a unique way to experience the heartbeat of the country.
From the Tennessee River we connected with the Tennessee-Tombigbee Canal, and the Tombigbee led us to Mobile Bay, where we zig-zagged to enjoy both sides and experience the Alabama hospitality. Mobile Bay leads to the Panhandle ICW and traverses through Gulf Shores and Orange Beach, AL; Pensacola FL; and more. These are perhaps some of the best beaches in the world with white silicon sand that squeaks as you walk on it.
At Apalachicola, FL, we staged for our Gulf of Mexico crossing to Tarpon Springs, and from there we took the Florida ICW. With the Shorebilly’s two-foot draft, we shot into the Everglades and visited Goodland and Everglades City, leaving a smaller open water crossing to the Florida Keys. Since we were days ahead of our reservations in Marathon, we went north to John Pennekamp State Park for reef snorkeling. Then, after we had enjoyed all the Keys have to offer, we returned to the city crowds of Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and West Palm.
Bumpy ride to a boater’s paradise
Aubrey: At West Palm we shot 70 miles out in the Atlantic to the Bahamas West End. The day called for good conditions, but the weather resources don’t always get it right. About 30 miles out we ended up in seven- to 10-foot seas. It was more than we bargained for, but not unsafe with an eight to nine second period between waves. I had to be very active on the wheel, but the Shorebilly was the real hero of the story. She did great, going 13 mph up the waves, eating through the chop on top, and zooming down at 23 mph.
Terri: The effort was so worth it. We spent three weeks running around the Abacos. The Bahamas are a boater’s paradise with beauty so bold the eye and mind almost can’t process it.
Classic and quaint, Southern living
Terri: Leaving Florida and entering Georgia we transitioned from opulent wealth to classic southern living. The live oaks with the Spanish moss stood in direct contrast to the Florida modern glass-front housing. Moving north, each community proved more and more quaint as we traveled through Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina. Not wanting the trip to end, we extended it by doing the Albemarle Loop. Towns around the Albermarle Sound offer two-night free dockage. Each town was rich in history and delightful in character. At the other end of the Dismal Swamp Canal, which was gorgeous, lies Norfolk, where we started our journey. When we arrived home, our dock was full of friends cheering us on.
Not done yet!
Aubrey and Terri: We have, and will, do many trips around the Bay with the Shorebilly. We plan to revisit the East Coast ICW and make another trip (or three!) to the Bahamas. As for large trips, we are discussing the possibility of the “Down East Loop” which circumnavigates Nova Scotia, Prince Edwards Island, Long Island, and more. We are also considering the Inside Passage into Alaska.
Just know that wherever the Shorebilly goes, she will be flying the AGLCA gold flag, for we are very proud of our accomplishment of completing the American Great Loop. Where else in this era at this phase of life can you find a real adventure?
Advice for Someone Considering the Loop:
- Take your time to read up on the possibilities and design your trip with flexibility to change plans as needed.
- Join AGLCA, attend a rendezvous, and listen to all the podcasts. It’s a great way to learn about the Loop, route options, reading weather/water conditions, and collaborate with great people: greatloop.org.
- In many locations you can take a break and fly home. We rented a car in Chicago and twice in Florida to visit our children.
- There are people everywhere to help you if you need it. We had a gentleman from Quebec City take us in his luxury car to get oil at a hardware store.
- Stuff happens... It’s okay to make a mistake. Everyone does
For anyone interested in reading about the trip in detail, Aubrey and Terri documented their journey at:
keeping-you-in-the-loop.blogspot.com/?m=1.
Interview by Beth Crabtree