After years of working, sailing, and raising a family in California, Ellen and Brian Swedberg began their Great Loop adventure in 2021, slipping their lines in Kentucky to take on the 6000-mile circumnavigation of the Eastern US and parts of Canada on their 31-foot Camano Troll. They are spreading the adventure over several years, giving themselves plenty of time to explore the most intriguing areas, and they have relocated their homeport to the Chesapeake region. Here they share in their own words some of their adventures and a bit of advice for those who dream of doing the Loop themselves.
When did the dream start?
Ellen: It started 10 years ago. Brian was fascinated with the history of the Erie Canal and that led to possibly renting a canal boat, and buying a day boat just for the Erie, then—Holy Cow!—there is this thing called the Great Loop! We both read “Honey Let’s Get a Boat” by Ron and Eva Stob. Even though it was written in 2003, it remains a must-read for anyone contemplating the Loop, and their philosophy about “get the smallest boat you can stand to live on” became our motto as we researched various boat designs. As we got closer to retirement and four years from our Loop start, we joined the America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association (AGLCA).
Their perfect Loop boat.
Brian: Our boat, Perfect Choice, is a 31-foot Camano Troll. We had been looking for her for a few years, specifically for the Loop. We looked at smaller and larger vessels. The Camano fell into the sweet spot. Of major importance was a single diesel for economic purposes and its protected running gear. Since the Loop only puts you in the open ocean for a few small sections, we never felt the need for a twin/backup engine.
Taking the Loop in sections.
Ellen: We have traveled 5500 miles in five legs of different lengths. For us it doesn’t make sense to attempt to complete the whole Loop in one year. Taking the Loop in sections has allowed us to go home for extended periods, including the holidays, a grandbaby’s birth, and when we just needed a break.
When we are on the Loop, we have more time to explore areas that interest us, and since we are retired, this pace works well for us. About five months on the boat seems to be our sweet spot.
We usually anchor about three times per week; sometimes it’s nice to be alone. Other times it’s good to be at a dock. A slip at a marina offers the chance to visit with friends, do laundry, resupply, rent a car, and explore.
On the Loop you see so much, from working waterfront towns to isolated anchorages where it’s just you and the dolphins, and you meet so many incredible people who all share your sense of adventure. Sometimes it’s a challenge to process it all!
Trucking the boat to get started.
Brian: To start our Loop, we trucked Perfect Choice from our home in California to Kentucky, where we slipped the lines in the fall of 2021. We explored Kentucky Lake, went down the Tennessee-Tom Bigbee River to Mobile Bay, and continued through the Florida Panhandle. While in Alabama we joined the big AGLCA rendezvous at Joe Wheeler State Park, where we met many other Loopers. In January of 2022 we crossed the Gulf to Tarpon Springs, and to the Keys and up the Intracoastal waterway from Florida through the Dismal Swamp to Norfolk.
We spent the whole summer of 2022 in the Chesapeake and fell in love with the area. During the winter, we returned to California and stored the boat in Trappe, MD. In the spring of 2023 we left the Chesapeake for New York City, Long Island Sound, Cape Cod, the East River to the Hudson, and the entire length of the Erie Canal to Niagara Falls. Again, we stored the boat for the winter, this time in New York State. Each year we had no trouble finding dry, heated storage that was fairly economical for a boat our size, and there were plenty of places that could accommodate boats in the 50-foot range.
Moving homeport to the Chesapeake.
Ellen: This year we were ready to go to Canada but decided to pause our Loop to relocate our homeport to the Chesapeake. We are now at our new place in the town of Weems, VA, off the Rappahannock River. From here we will be able to use our boat in any season. We are well situated to head south to Florida this winter, and north on the Loop to Canada next summer.
Advice for someone considering the Loop.
Brian: Get to know your boat before you start. Although you’re mostly in protected waters, it is by no means a simple trip. All your boat systems will be tested to the max, as well as you and your crew. On the Loop, you will spend a significant amount of time and energy planning and navigating areas that are new to you. If you are learning your boat at the same time, it is more likely that you’ll become frustrated.
Since the Loop is really just stringing many multi-day trips together, ideally you would go out for a few nights, and then a week, and eventually several weeks. This provides ample opportunities to gradually gather spare parts and the tools you’ll need, become proficient at provisioning, and slowly learn the boat and its systems.
Not exactly a vacation, but life changing, indeed.
Ellen: Navigating the Loop is not all margaritas and sunsets. Sometimes it’s hot and you have boat chores to do. Things break. You’re out of groceries.
Brian: You might become frustrated with yourself or your partner. Often the risk to be managed is more about heading off frustration than danger. However, frustration is part of the lesson, and in the end it’s all worth it because you have time to think, time to learn about who you are, time to consider what’s really important. We can’t overstate how lifechanging the trip can be!
Tips for boaters considering the Loop.
Ellen: We have heard that “wherever your relationship is going, you will get there faster by boat” and we have shared this as Loop advice to many. We highly recommend using headsets to communicate. Ours are Senas. They facilitate a calm exchange of information and reduce frustration.
Locks can be intimidating at first. There are ways to prepare yourselves and the boat to decrease anxiety levels. On shore, take a class and watch YouTube videos. Onboard, be prepared with lots of fenders, and have boat hooks, gloves, and lines at the ready. You’ll find that when you travel with the same boats and lock with them again and again, you start to anticipate what they will do, and that can make things a bit easier.
Most Loopers use Nebo, and we really like it. Nebo is a satellite tracker that keeps a boat log and also connects us with other boats. AGLCA vessels show on the screen with the association’s burgee, and there is a group chat function that is very helpful for asking those ahead about anchorages, marinas, weather, etc.
Finally, take advantage of all the incredible AGLCA resources—other Loopers, apps, rendezvous, seminars, forums, and harbor hosts. It’s an overwhelming amount of support.
Learn more about cruising the Great Loop at greatloop.org.