Another season has come and gone, and winter will soon be here! It is that unfortunate time of the year when boaters, far and wide—with the exception of those occupying more southerly states—must face the unfortunate reality of the changing season. But how does one begin to winterize one’s vessel, particularly when time is of the essence?
For starters, you must determine if you are inclined to undertake the task of winterization yourself. If not, it is time to get on the “list” of one of the many inundated shops in the area—and to such an end, there is not a moment to waste. Shops this time of year are typically backlogged for weeks, if not months, and are definitively not miracle workers who are able to turn back the clock on the autumnal cycle.
Drain & Antifreeze
But the number one imperative to note when deliberating winterization of one’s vessel: all systems which contain water must be drained before storing one’s boat away for its winter’s nap. The former is neither up for negotiation nor debate, as water expands upon freezing—and is therefore apt to crack, shatter, or otherwise destroy any equipment or machinery where it is not completely drained. Such an imperative applies to raw water cooled (RWC) engines, generators, air conditioning pumps and units, pressurized freshwater systems, and so on. All these systems (and any others with raw water) must be drained before significant freezing temps are encountered.
The prevailing guideline is as follows: “x degrees for x hours,” is likely to result in catastrophic freeze damage from the physical expansion of water molecules as it freezes. For example, 15 degrees for 15 hours. Any night-time temperature under 15 degrees, ought to induce quick action for non-winterized boat owners!
But winterizing one’s own boat is not actually a complex task; it simply entails draining water (which includes fishing drains with a thin rod to unseat any clogs from sediment accumulation) and back-filling with protective antifreeze. Owners of outboard-powered boats can rejoice: outboards are typically self-draining, which allows them to be used basically all winter as the weather allows—but while the preceding is generally true, owners will want to check their outboard manufacturer’s (shop or owner’s) manual to be sure.
PWC’s and jet-powered boats by Yamaha and Sea Doo (and other BRP propulsion systems on boats of another OEM) are often, at least partially, closed-cooled—meaning coolant is circulated within the engine on a closed-loop, with an internally ‘honey-combed’ heat-exchanger serving as the point of contact between the coolant itself and the sea. On such boats, one will want to follow the manufacturer-recommended procedure to a “T.” In my experience, this process typically entails the running of the engine out of the water—being sure to remove any water remaining in the jet pump and cooling system, which typically takes around a minute. Heat exchangers, usually made of copper, expand better than iron or aluminum, but are still apt to crack under the duress of freezing temperatures; therefore, they must also be drained.
Nonetheless, on inboard-powered boats and sterndrives, one will wish to drain all the water and backfill with antifreeze if raw water cooled (i.e. no heat exchanger). Draining of a RWC inboard would include the engine block, cylinder heads, and intake manifold—in addition to the exhaust manifolds, exhaust risers, exhaust muffler, and/or any other accessories like an oil or power steering cooler. All individual drains will likely have to be removed. Upon removal, there are typically two to three gallons of water within the engine at any given time. If there is even a trickle from one of the “single-point” drain systems, it is likely clogged with sediment—and this will need remediation before backfilling with antifreeze. But if winterizing oneself, always know your engine make, model, and serial number so that you may locate all drains—and therefore, remove all water first, before backfilling with antifreeze.
In winterizing, antifreeze serves two primary functions: 1) it helps displace any residual water; and 2) it contains additives which help combat corrosion. This is recommended because it also serves to mix with any stubbornly persisting water. I always leave any drains open while backfilling (through cooling system hoses) with antifreeze, to ensure that all water has been displaced and drained before replacing the drain and filling the entire engine, generator, or other systems.
Annual Maintenance & Repairs
Winterization also affords the best opportunity to complete annual maintenance—i.e. oil and oil filter change(s), fuel filter replacement(s), lower unit oil change, etc. For owners with easily accessible carburetors, i.e. those mounted atop intake manifolds, ‘fogging’ with fogging oil by spraying the oil directly into the throat of the carburetor until the engine begins to stutter is prudent (since it is not much additional work). Additional maintenance tasks to consider if due include spark plug and wire replacement, distributor cap/rotor replacement, raw water pump impeller replacement, and transmission fluid change.
Winter is also the time to schedule and undertake repairs, since most shops tend to be less busy by the middle of December—and such a slow period often continues until early March. If owners elect to wait until spring for repairs and upgrades, as many do, it is likely they will not have their boat back and completed by the middle of the following summer. But boat expenses tend to compound—hence why many owners decide to seek a holiday reprieve that continues into the New Year. While understandable, serious owners should begin to think about work needed for the upcoming season by the middle of February at the latest. Such a declaration includes planning ahead for routine maintenance like anode replacements, bottom painting, and barrier coating, as well. Remember: preparation for next season begins now. Avoidance now can, and often does, derail the ensuing season.
Either way, do not fret too much beyond preparing one’s boat for its winter’s nap by ensuring all systems containing fresh water are drained—and that one’s vessel is adequately covered by a good custom cover supported by poles and straps, or the more-traditional shrinkwrap. In my experience, the latter works better for most people, but I have long employed the former to great effect. While it is not ideal to leave old oils or other fluids demanding annual replenishment, I have often done so myself numerous times with no observed detrimental effects.
In short, my advice as a marine mechanic and serial boat-owner is as follows: take care of the basic necessities first, and then prepare for next season’s eventualities. In life as well as in boating, it is often important to enjoy one’s current place. Enjoy the offseason for its elemental repose, which will serve to make the proceeding boating season more fruitful when it arrives. And take heart, for it always does. That is, as long as you take care of your vessel. If you don’t, all bets are off—especially with a creature so fickle as a boat.
By Drew Maglio