I have no idea where you store your tackle during the winter, but if it’s kept on your boat, out in a shed, or (as in my case) in the garage, now is the time to dig it out and get everything ready for the season. You may have a few rods and reels that only see the light of day when one of your guests wants to fish, or you may have an arsenal to rival a small tackle shop. In either case, or anything in between, reels tend to freeze up, lines will deteriorate, and hooks will rust. Better to find that out now, rather than when you want to use the tackle, only to find it unusable.
Reels
These are the most delicate part of your tackle. Most new reels are made of some sort of plastic, so rust is not the problem it once was. But even the newest reels can fall victim to saltwater intrusion. If the bail won’t open or close, if the handle won’t turn, or if the inside of the reel sounds like a coffee grinder when it does turn, you have waited a bit too long to service it. In most of these severe cases replacement is the only cure.
If the reel seems reasonably serviceable, you can probably save it with a little WD-40 and reel grease. Spinning reels are fairly easy to take apart. Remove the side cover, and the gears are right inside. Look for any dust, chips, or chunks that may have come from the gears. Finding none, proceed to clean out the old grease and put in new. If you do find damaged gears, refer back to the replacement advice.
Most reel companies make a specific grease for their reels. This may have come with your reel, or you may have to visit a tackle shop to purchase a tube.
With the sideplate back on, check the bail to see if it opens and closes correctly. If not, you may have a broken bail spring. Bail springs are not easy to replace because they go on under pressure, and it takes me several tries along with a good deal of cussing and swearing before I get the thing put back correctly.
Next you need to check the line on the reel. Monofilament will deteriorate over time, especially if left in the sun. Pull off a few feet of line and see how it feels. The line should be reasonably soft and not kink up like a Slinky when not under pressure. There should be no nicks or knots in the line, and you should use enough to fill the spool. I strongly urge everyone to replace their monofilament line every year. The stuff is dirt cheap, and new line is going to work much better than old.
Braided line is a different story. It is expensive and should be used until showing signs of wear. I find a 100-yard spool more than enough braid to handle any fishing in the Bay. Back it up with 30- to 50-pound mono and you can keep the spool full while saving some money.
Conventional reels are a bit more complicated. If you have good mechanical skills and the diagram that came with the reel, you can probably service them yourself. If, however, you are mechanically challenged like me, the best bet is to take the reel to a service center. Most reel companies have centers where you can ship the reel, or they may have local repair shops that are authorized to fix their products.
Rods
Rods are easier than reels. Check for broken or missing guides. Test each guide by running a cotton swab around the inside, and if any of the cotton catches on the guide that guide must be replaced. The top guide gets most of the abuse and should be checked very carefully.
Reel seats may crack or work loose causing the reel to flop around or even fall off. Try twisting the seat, and if it moves at all, you are going to be better off by replacing the entire rod.
Hooks
Hooks will rust, and when allowed to sit unprotected all winter they will turn into an unusable mess. Once your hooks show any sign of rust, throw them out and buy new ones.
Hooks attached to lures can be replaced. Most are attached with split rings. Buy a split ring tool to make the job easier. Match the hook size and weight to the original to make sure the lure will operate correctly.
Some anglers will replace lure hooks with stronger models to keep the fish from breaking off. Others will replace trebles with single hooks that have much better holding power.
Maintenance
In order to keep your tackle in the best working condition possible, it’s a good idea to perform simple maintenance after every use. I do not wash my tackle with water. I spray everything with WD-40, allow it to sink in, and then wipe the excess off with a clean rag. I have been doing this for years and have some very old freshwater reels used only in saltwater that have no rust and still work perfectly. The water-replacing oil will stick to the surface so it not only cleans, but also protects the area from future exposure to saltwater.
I also spray WD-40 inside the plastic box that holds my selection of hooks. This keeps them rust free even if I put one or two away while still wet. My plugs also get a dose of WD-40 to keep the hooks clean. WD-40 will not harm fishing line, but I don’t put it on soft plastic baits.
Finally, try to store your tackle in a location out of direct sunlight but with good ventilation. The sun is hard on monofilament line, and stagnant air breeds mildew. With a little pre-season work your tackle will be ready when the fish arrive.
by Eric Burnley