It is Virginia’s great river. The mighty James River is rich in size, wildlife, history, fishing, wilderness, cities, even shipbuilding, and it truly offers something for everyone.
Called Powhatan Flu by natives, English settlers changed the name to James after the English King. The river starts and ends entirely within Virginia. It is about 340 miles long, with 25,000 miles of tributaries. It is generally divided into three sections: The lower James is home to commercial ports, plantations, fishing, and shipbuilding; the middle James is home to rapids, smaller towns and cities, and more fishing; and the upper James is home to more whitewater, scenery, and muskies.
No one really knows when the first humans settled along the James. However, prehistoric stone tools have been found in the James’s watershed, including Clovis points. The Clovis culture existed more than 10,000 years ago. When English settlers arrived in 1607, they found the Powhatan confederation around Jamestown. Fighting and disease eventually pushed the Powhatans away, leaving an English colony that grew quickly. Stately plantations arose along the banks.
As you enter the lower James from the Chesapeake Bay, the north shore is dominated by shipbuilding and commercial facilities. Interestingly, the southern shore was never industrialized except for the Elizabeth River into Norfolk and Portsmouth. The river is broad here. The James River Bridge, which was first completed in 1928 and was the longest bridge in the world at that time, covers 4.39 miles. Today’s four-lane bridge is a replacement. The channel here is well marked and deep, and large vessels have no issues.
The river is alive here. Wild oysters can be found throughout the area. The grounds are worked by watermen on a regular basis. Fishing in the area is also excellent, with rockfish, red drum, and seatrout being abundant and popular. In winter, you can still find birds working over stripers in this area. Redfish seem to have become year-round residents, with over-slot fish (over 26 inches) being caught even in December. In Newport News, the pier at Huntington Park is a good fishing spot for those who do not have a boat.
Farther upriver you encounter Joint Base Langley-Eustis, which appears largely undeveloped from the water. Chippokes Plantation State Park, on the south shore by the Surry Power Station, is a popular fossil hunting spot. One of the oldest working plantations in existence, Chippokes has been farmed continuously since 1619. Besides Chippokes, the list of plantations on the river includes Shirley, Carter’s Grove, Bouvier Castle, Berkeley, Sherwood Forest, and many more. You pass the Chickahominy River, a major tributary known for its wildlife, especially eagles. You might encounter the ferry that runs between Jamestown and Scotland. The ferry is a fun way to see this part of the river and Jamestown.
Even farther upriver is another major tributary, the Appomattox River, which was also a plantation site and camp in the Civil War. Just before Richmond, you will find the historic slave trail on the west bank. Starting at Manchester Docks, the trail documents the time when Richmond was a major slave port, peaking between 1830 and 1860. Finally, you hit the fall line at downtown Richmond.
The James just below Richmond has a national reputation for producing huge blue catfish. The cats are invasive. Their presence has likely been a detriment to other fish species in the watershed, including striped bass and shad. Anglers fish for blue cats with sturdy tackle and cut fish for bait. Virginia’s state record blue cat weighed 143 pounds (though it did not come from the James). They are excellent table fare, and anglers are encouraged to keep what they catch. Sturgeon are also making a comeback in the area. You can book a sturgeon tour during which you might get to see one of these ancient creatures jump clear out of the water.
Above Richmond, the middle and upper James are best traveled by canoe or kayak, though occasionally you see small outboards with jet drives. Powhatan State Park, located on the south bank in Powhatan County, offers two miles of shoreline on the James. The park offers hiking, biking, and interpretive trails, camping (including primitive), and canoe and kayak launch areas. Further upriver is James River State Park, which has similar facilities in a smaller park. Smallmouth bass are the favorite game fish in this area, though redbreast sunfish, rock bass, bluegill, channel catfish, and flathead catfish also provide fun. Smallmouths are fun to catch on light and ultralight spinning outfits connected to small lures. Fly fishing is also popular.
Above Buchanan, anglers turn their attention to muskies. These large and powerful game fish are targeted in the winter. They should not be caught in the summer, when higher water temperatures increase mortality in released fish. Muskies are sometimes referred to as ‘the fish of a thousand casts.’ Anglers throw huge lures and flies over and over on heavy tackle until they finally find a musky that wants to eat.
Paddle sports are popular around Glasgow. The town hosts a shelter for Appalachian Trail hikers, along with one popular restaurant, Scotto’s Pizza. Scotto’s is accustomed to having hikers and paddlers come inside. Still moving upriver, you find the river’s source near Iron Gate, VA. The James starts where the Jackson and Cowpasture Rivers meet just south of town.
The James River Association has volumes of information about the river. They cover most everything, from history to fishing. Their resources include maps that will help you plan your trip. Another great source of information is the Virginia Division of Wildlife Resources. They provide excellent information on fishing and access.
The James River provides so many varied opportunities that it would take a book to list them all. Whatever your interest is, the James has it. Fossil hunting, shark teeth, huge catfish, mountain views, paddling, and seafood. Plan your trip today.
By Kendall Osborne