The Chesapeake Bay offers boaters almost unending enjoyment along its thousands of miles of shoreline—the land of pleasant living. But during August it can be hot, humid, and full of jellyfish. Imagine chartering in an area nearly one-quarter the size of the Bay, full of canals, lakes, and dozens of historic towns and villages, where the average temperature in August is only 72 degrees with low humidity. Welcome to Friesland, the Dutch province famous for its maritime culture.
We first discovered the joy of boating in Friesland two decades ago when our sons were little. Since then, we have chartered six times for a total of 13 weeks on the water. Our stays have grown from one week, with little ones and teenagers, to a month now that we are able to work remotely. The northern Netherlands continues to amaze and inspire us. We are drawn to this maritime landscape due to the pace, environment, and infrastructure. Friesland, and the neighboring northern provinces of Groningen, Drenthe, and Overissel, offer something for all boaters.
The pace of boating in the northern Netherlands is slower than on the Chesapeake Bay. Most vessels travel at displacement speeds, usually listed in kilometers/hour. But slower speeds are prudent because some of the canals are narrow as you navigate through small towns and villages lined with moored vessels. Canals link the two dozen large Friesland lakes attracting hundreds of boaters and a variety of vessels: canoes, kayaks, sculls, paddleboards, sailboats, dinghies, and converted fishing boats that are now floating homes. We’ve seen at least one boat shaped like a traditional Dutch wooden shoe. With all these boats however, it is not uncommon to find yourself all alone in a canal or on an island watching a beautiful sunset as the swans swim by.
Friesland’s environment is vast and beautiful and horizontal: cameras cannot capture its expansive beauty. Wildlife, in the form of ducks, swans, heron, and storks abound along the reeded edges of the waterways. Several large areas are reserved exclusively for wildlife. Canadian geese populate the fields and the sky in numbers we haven’t seen on the shore in years. Herds of cattle and sheep graze on many parcels, and horses, especially the Friesian breed with their hairy hooves, are often spotted. Sitting at the stern of your aft cabin charter offers spectacular views across this landscape, often 360 degrees, as there are few tall buildings to interrupt the viewshed. Often the tallest landmarks are church towers of many designs and windmills (both modern and traditional).
Friesland’s environment contains a mosaic of infrastructure that enhances access and enjoyment. Marrekrite is the region’s premier agency that manages miles of well-maintained moorings found at 400 sites across the region hosting over 700 vessels nightly. Bridges and sluices (canal locks) come in a variety of designs and are either operated remotely or with an operator. A few are self-service, a truly rewarding experience, as is cruising over an aqueduct, with your boat gliding over a four-lane highway.
Once tied up for the evening, there is an expansive network of walking and biking trails that expand your access to the region’s nature and culture that is not as easily accessible from the water. Most Dutch roads include separate well-marked lanes for bikes and for walkers. In addition, there are untold numbers of walking and biking paths that crisscross the countryside. At times the trail might lead you up to and through a farmyard where you can get a close-up view of traditional house-barns.
Sailboat racing fans would not want to miss the “skutsjes,” a collection of traditional flat bottomed cargo vessels (12-20 meters by three-and-a-half meters wide) converted for racing. In one network, local towns proudly sponsor boats that compete in 11 races at various locations in July and August. We encountered one of these events: imagine over 100 vessels of various designs anchored along a marked channel to watch the competition.
Getting to Friesland is easy. At Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport you can catch a train to Leeuwarden, the province’s capital, and on to Sneek and many other towns with charter facilities. The region also hosts an extensive bus network for local travel. Many signs are presented in both Dutch and Fries, a local language. Don’t worry about communication—most people in the Netherlands speak English but appreciate your learning a few polite words and phrases. Programs like Google Translate make short work of interpretive signs, menus, and other printed materials.
Chartering a boat in Friesland is equally simple; there are numerous companies, many centered in the city of Sneek. The available vessels range in size from nine to 15 meters (roughly 29 to 49 feet) with capacity ranging from two people to 12. The cabins and kitchens are well appointed for life onboard. Most charter boats are of steel construction with an aft cabin design and are fitted with a bow thruster. No special license is required to operate a vessel, so novice boaters are welcome. Charter companies offer a good introduction to boat operation and local maritime rules. We have used Yacht Charter Sneek.
Charting your course is aided by any number of online mapping systems that can help you plan your day’s cruising adventure—we use Waterkaartan. Finding a place to tie up for the night is also easy. As noted, there are numerous well-marked piers located throughout the waterways where one can stay for up to two nights or more without cost. Marinas (havens) are common within many towns and villages and offer electrical hookups, water, trash disposal, showers, and Wi-Fi. In fact, the problem is that there are just too many beautiful places to spend an evening.
Boating in Friesland and its surrounding provinces promises a wholly delightful experience for both the novice and seasoned skipper. The maritime community here is welcoming and appreciates visitors who enjoy and respect the region’s vast natural environment and diverse cultural history. In our travels, we have never encountered other Americans—we are often taken for being either English or Canadian. With every charter we discover new places and people to enjoy and now have a list of favorite ports (and pubs) that continue to provide happy memories. Its horizontal landscape of fields, farms, and dikes is somewhat like the lower Eastern Shore—but with humane levels of temperature and humidity. We highly recommend that fellow boaters consider a charter adventure in Friesland. So far, we have found only one drawback to the remarkable experience: while oysters are available, there are no blue crabs.
About the Authors: As longtime residents of Alexandria, VA, and Chestertown, MD, Esther and John Sprinkle have embraced sailing and motor boating on the Chesapeake, the Virgin Islands, and in the Netherlands. They currently sail a Catalina 22 on the Potomac and enjoy kayaking on Morgan’s Creek and the Chester River. They are planning their return charter to Friesland and expect to embark on the Great Loop in the near future.